Sex has been used in advertising for many decades now. There are a countless number of examples out there and we probably encounter at least one per day in our 21st century lives. But how does sex sell? Reichert (2002) highlights that much research has been completed to investigate the effect of sex in advertising. The greatest fact that emanates from such research is that sexual information leads to attention. Research has also shown that sexual ads are more interesting, engaging and involving (Dudley, 1999).
So sex captures our attention. It helps achieve the cut-through that is so difficult to do in this day and age. No doubt it is a powerful tool. But does it actually result it in sales and how can it be improved? Daye and VanAuken (2008) suggest that sex coupled with controversy is a far more potent strategy. This was demonstrated by Abercrombie & Fitch in their 2003 Christmas Catalogue.
The Abercrombie & Fitch catalogue, “A&F Quarterly” was distributed from the store and was one of the most talked about print campaigns of all time (Lane, 2007). It was widely acknowledged as an influential pioneer of the magalog (Lane, 2007). The 2003 Christmas edition was withdrawn only days after it was released. The catalogue contained over 100 images of topless young teens positioned together in highly sexually suggestive ways. The text reads, “Sex as we know, can involve one or two, but what about even more? ... A pleasant and supersafe alternative to this is group masturbation” (Kazdin, 2003). Another feature encrouged the consumption of alcohol (Lane, 2008). As a result of this sex-controversy cocktail, copies of the catalogue fetched US$150, lines in the stores grew and sales increased.
Abercrombie and Fitch
2003 Christmas Catalogue
Agency: Shahid & Co.
Sam Shahid, the head of Shahid & Co., the agency that designed the campaigns argues that the ads were not meant to shock. “There is no such thing as too sexy”, he says. He adds, “You’re talking to the kids. Everybody talks about sex all the time” (Kazdin, 2003).
The target market of this campaign was obviously “kids” or young adults. It's no secret that the company targets the 18-22 year-old American college student (2007). With every issue the A&F Quarterly pushed ethical boundaries further. Given the target market, I can see why Abercrombie & Fitch would use such a strategy. They are selling more than clothes, they are selling a lifestyle, says A&F CEO and Chairman, Michael Jefferies (Lane, 2007). Teenagers want to be cool and require an outlet for their sense of rebellion. Adults all over the world are condemning such provocative images and calling for boycotts of the brand. However, the highly publicised outrage works in the favour of Abercrombie & Fitch as it triggers the teenagers’ need for rebellion. It makes teenagers fonder of the brand because the adults disapprove and thus fulfilling their need for rebellion.
The results have also supported claims that this dangerous cocktail has succeed yet again. Surprisingly Abercrombie & Fitch dropped the “sex” in the advertising a few years ago, however to their demise, the queues disappeared and revenue started to fall (Daye and VanAuken, 2008). After going back to its original image, Abercrombie & Fitch saw an increase of 13% in revenue (Daye and VanAuken, 2008). All the while, their competitor GAP who is not using sex in their advertising is losing revenue and downsizing.
However, I do not feel that this is an ethical strategy. Although one cannot argue against the numbers, I find it extremely sad that companies have to resort to this sort of strategy just to get a sale. Teenagers are susceptible to advertising and want to look cool. They will do anything to feel excepted. Both clients and agency owe society a duty of care and should never capitalise on the vulnerabilities of the youth. Such strategy should never have been sketched out in a boardroom, let alone published. There are far more effective ways to achieve cut-through than to lower our moral standards.
Finally, I agree with Richard Jaffe, a retail analyst from UBS, this racy and controversial content eventually becomes boring and gets absorbed back into the clutter it once broke through. Companies will find it increasingly “harder and harder to outdo themselves, to provoke, to generate a reaction and create the excitement of the past” (Lane, 2007, p. 3). Thus further proving the point that there are better and more ethical ways to get attention.
